Get a free quote

Septic repair & leach field problems

Most problems are repairs, not replacements.

When a septic system misbehaves, it's natural to fear the worst, a full replacement. DPHD's own O&M FAQ notes that only malfunctioning systems need corrective action, and that replacing an entire system is very rare. Most fixes are repairs: a pump or motor, a baffle, a line, or an added leach line. Here's what tends to go wrong in Delaware and Union counties and how it's fixed.

Common repairs

ProblemTypical fix
Broken or missing outlet baffle/teeReplace the baffle or tee to keep scum out of the field
Clogged effluent filterClean it, and set up a regular cleaning schedule
Failed effluent pump, float or alarmReplace the component, and check the control panel and wiring
Aerator motor or diaphragm failureRebuild or replace the aerator
Crushed or root-clogged line between house and tank, or tank and fieldCamera inspection, then section replacement or jetting
Cracked tank or collapsed lidRepair or replace the tank (requires a permit)
Saturated or failing leach fieldReduce water use, find the cause, and possibly add field lines or alter the system (requires a permit)

Why leach fields struggle here

Conventional leach fields need soil that accepts and filters water. Much of Delaware and Union counties is slow-draining glacial clay with seasonally high water tables. That's why newer systems here are often mounds, drip systems or aerators, and why older fields commonly struggle in wet springs. Overloading a field with water, from leaky fixtures, downspouts or a sump pump discharging onto it, speeds up failure.

Permits for repairs and alterations

Under Ohio's sewage rules, installing, altering or replacing a household sewage treatment system needs a permit from the local health district, and only registered installers may do the work. In Delaware County, the 2025 fee sheet lists alteration and replacement permits (replacement permits include site and design review). In Union County, new installations need a site and design application along with a soil report from a registered soil scientist, and the department does a follow-up inspection 12 months after a new system goes in. Simple service, like pumping, cleaning filters or replacing a pump with the same type, usually doesn't need an installation permit, but the service report still goes to the district.

Emergency: sewage backing up

  1. Stop using water: no laundry, dishwasher or showers.
  2. Keep people and pets away from any surfacing sewage.
  3. Check the alarm and breaker on mechanical systems.
  4. Call for pumping and diagnosis. Pumping the tank often buys time while the cause is found.

Connecting to sewer instead

If central sewer becomes available on your street, connecting can be an alternative to a major repair. Ask the sewer provider (Delaware County Regional Sewer District, a city utility, or the village) about availability and tap fees. Abandoning the old tank properly requires a health district form and, in Delaware County, a fee that's waived when you connect to central sewer.

Get it in writing

For any repair, ask for a written quote describing the cause, the fix, the parts, whether a permit is needed, and the warranty. For big-ticket field work, a second opinion from another registered contractor is reasonable.

Sources

How do I know if my leach field is failing?

Persistent soggy ground or surfacing effluent over the field, backups after pumping, or water flowing back into the tank are common signs. A registered provider can confirm.

Is a whole new system usually needed?

Rarely. DPHD notes most corrective actions are repairs like pumps, motors, an added leach line, or a replacement tank.

Who can install or alter a septic system?

Only installers registered with the local health district, under a permit from that district.

Get a free quote